It
is pointless to ask for directions to Soi Cowboy because the street stands out
from all other Bangkok alleys with its glaring neon lights and thumping bass
sounds. During the day the traffic
of pink and yellow tuk tuks, motorcycles, and Toyotas rival the music with
beeps. At night the street becomes
more imposing and one senses that touching this bright city would feel cool and
sharp as metal.
Soi
Cowboy roars with drunken cries for sex.
Bar trucks line the perpendicular road, Sukhumvit, so that pedestrians
can drink wine coolers and Mai Tais until they shake off the shame of
approaching Soi Cowboy's scintillating entryway. Truthfully, no one in Bangkok judges the visitors of Soi
Cowboy. Bangkok streets are rife
with male, female, and gender ambiguous prostitutes. The night markets sell vibrators and tiger print handcuffs
alongside backpacks with elephant motifs, Buddha's image printed on lamps and
tee shirts, tie dyed sarongs, and fake designer jewelry and electronics.
Every
night is a holiday on Soi Cowboy.
Hilary is celebrating her twenty-first birthday even though her
birthdate is next month. She has
agreed to let three of her male coworkers get her drunk with a can of warm beer
and a Singapore Sling and take her to her first strip club. She wears her tightest tank top and
rims her eyes with more eyeliner because when she puts on makeup they tell her
it looks like her eyes can pierce their souls. Tonight they say nothing except, "Let's go."
Entering
Soi Cowboy tastes salty, like the sticky neck of a Skytrain metro commuter or
the crystal garnish for sliced guava, pineapple, and purple yam sold on the
sidewalk for twenty baht. The
go-go bars on Soi Cowboy all have different themes: Texas ranch, followed by
English royalty, followed by Middle Eastern desert, followed by dollhouse
kitsch, followed by another Texas ranch.
The strippers wear costumes with blue glitter and tassels, patches of
polyester and high heeled boots, bending down to serve customers seated at the
outdoor patios their Singha beers and vodka shots. The women take hourly shifts holding signs written in
English, advertising show highlights and bar specials. They stand by the door with their legs
spread slightly, frozen.
The
neon overwhelms the street; the pedestrians’ skin glow indigo. Vendors sell papery popcorn and mango
sticky rice from their bicycles.
Children with scabby arms wave postcards and cigarettes at tourists,
pleading for baht. A man sits in
the middle of the street, his outstretched legs amputated at the knee and a
puppy sleeping on his thigh. But
no one looks at the street, instead focusing on the establishments that line
the road.
They
pass the first few establishments and quickly settle on a cowboy themed club
named KISS. A woman in a low-cut
white dress ushers the group to the end of a gleaming metal bench, one of two
that flank either side of a catwalk.
The men order Long Island Iced Teas. Hilary shakes her head no. The manager pushes a drink menu at her. Sitting on the edge of the bench, next
to the man who had taken her virginity the previous night, Hilary grasps the
menu with both hands and studies it until the manager walks away. She bobs to the music before realizing
dancing makes her one of them, the strippers.
She
peeks over the menu. Six women
writhe their bodies to the techno pulse, staring vacantly at their reflections
in the mirrored walls. They wear
silver stilettos, red and white striped ribbons placed over their pussies, blue
tassels stuck to their nipples, and white cowboy hats. Their skin is gauzy-pale, powder
collecting in the crevices behind their knees and elbows. Some cover their black iris with blue
or green colored contact lenses.
From their facial features, it is clear they are all Thai, even though
only one has straight black hair.
Another has curly red hair, another straight platinum hair in loose
pigtails, another cropped blond, curly light brown, and straight dark
brown. Maybe their hair has been
dyed, maybe they are wearing wigs.
It is difficult to distinguish the parts of their bodies that are
authentic.
Since
the women seem robotic, unfeeling, not even dancing in rhythm to the thump of
the bass line, Hilary can look at them without guilt. They can look at themselves, too, touching their cowboy hat
rims as they gaze at their reflections in the mirrored walls. Perhaps they are just as incredulous as
she is, all of them wondering how they ended up here, in this club with
excessive glint, glitter, flirt, and grit. All of them wondering how long the women’s arms, pubic area,
and calves will stay smooth before they have to clench their teeth and wax hair
off again. Wondering how long they
will sway until the manager signals the next act with her left hand tapping her
right shoulder.
Attributes
blur, rendering the women indistinguishable. Their torsos have no lines, wrinkles, defined musculature,
or protruding bones. The weight of
the tassels pulls on their small tits like feeding fish. No fat wiggles along with their swaying
bodies. The ribbons tied at their
hips never slip. Except for
occasional ankle tremors, the women stand powerfully.
Hilary’s
friends stare in rapture, their beers dangling loosely from their limp grasps
around the bottles’ necks. The one
who took her virginity chortles softly.
Alcohol has hardened all of the men, turning them solipsistic. She covers the echo of their laughter
with her own, feigning male indifference.
They point at the strippers with their beer bottles, sloshing liquid
onto their wrists.
Nothing
surprises her here. She yearns for
surprises like the magnificent scale of the Grand Palace and the reclining
Great Buddha: dazzling sights she had dreamed of since she was young. She had also dreamed of losing her
virginity to a charming teenager in a sunlit bedroom with soft down comforters,
but that disintegrated after she turned twenty. After she turned twenty, she became realistic. Realistic and impatient. Impatient and impulsive.
One
of her friends leans forward and yells past the one who took her virginity,
“Which one is the hottest?”
She
points at the one with straight black hair. That stripper has enough self-worth not to hide her
ethnicity behind wigs and makeup.
Asians may not have origins in a Texas ranch, but her honesty
taunts. Hilary explains none of
this, though. Her feminine nature
merely senses superlative attractiveness, according to them. She does not think but just does,
according to them.
Hilary’s friend follows her finger and agrees
with a vague “yeah.”
Leaning
against the bar, the manager signals the next act with her left hand tapping
her right shoulder. The women
march off the catwalk and through a doorframe covered in gold tinsel, which
flutters as the women parade through it, not bothering to partition the
metallic strands. Seconds later, six
other women file out with only a white, plastic band as thick as their
pussies. These women pout
aggressively, knowing they push the limits of concealment. Hilary’s spandex tank top and makeup
seem much less daring now. She
tries to look like she doesn’t care, clenching her jaw. The men seem convinced, but she cannot
convince herself.
The
women from the previous act have reentered the space, dispersing themselves
among the audience. The two
blondes begin repeating "hi" to Hilary’s friends and giggling
coquettishly. One squeezes herself
between Hilary and the one who took her virginity. Their arms touch.
She does not look at Hilary.
Hilary stares at the stripper’s belly button. She moves her arm, bending the menu. Hilary peruses the drink choices again
as the manager approaches their group.
Hilary orders a margarita to keep busy.
The
group is all in Thailand together but not just for Hilary’s unbirthday, since
she goes back to college in September before they can truly celebrate. One needed surgery after drunkenly
slamming a door on his hand so hard that he sliced off half his pointer finger,
one renewed his Marine Corps shooting license, and the one who took her
virginity joined Hilary in taking advantage of a cheap flight from Cambodia, where
the whole group works at the United States Consulate General Office. Back in Cambodia, everyone is home by
midnight because that is when the night spirits roam. In Cambodia, no one talks about sex. In Cambodia, Hilary’s body makes her
ashamed.
"Do
you want to go to Midnite now? I
saw a sign for a ping pong show starting soon," her friend farthest down
the bench asks, looking at his fake Rolex watch. He wears one of the strippers' cowboy hats. The techno music's thump fills the lag
in the men's decision-making capabilities. Hilary thinks she knows what a ping pong show is, but does
not clarify. How does a woman
shoot a plastic ball out of a place where there should never be a plastic
ball? She shakes her head:
finally, she has found the line.
"I'm
going to head to bed," Hilary announces after they leave the club. The group stands huddled on Soi Cowboy,
the sounds more muted now. The one
who took her virginity already walks forward before she has finished her
sentence. The other two nod, wish
her a good night, and follow him.
The next day, after ordering more room service burgers, scrambled eggs,
and chicken wings than they can afford, they will regret not walking her home.
Hilary
retraces her steps back to Sukhumvit.
No one looks at her and she is grateful. Not even the prostitutes in bright colors and fishnet
stockings, languishing on the sidewalk curb, turn their head as she
passes. Lingering at a table laden
with jewelry, she purchases a leather belt, too tired to haggle the price down
from 120 baht. Her pants have
become much looser over the last few weeks. Cambodia does not sell size 6 jeans or size 6 anything, so
she wears them even though they slip sometimes, revealing the waistband of her
panties. Soon maybe she will be
able to purchase the smaller Cambodian clothes and fit in, literally, with the
populace.
She
walks back to their hotel and sits on her uncomfortably firm mattress. The cream colored sheets have been
changed. She will never have to
see last night's sheet again. Hilary
unbuckles her sandals. The back of
her tank top clings damply to her skin.
The night before she slept naked.
Tonight she will sleep with all her clothes on. After ordering room service burgers,
scrambled eggs, and chicken wings, the men will knock on her door. She will not answer. She will wake up early and read by the
pool. They will find her
eventually. One will sigh, "I
thought you had disappeared."
She
wishes she had.